Happy New Year

Hello to all of our friends.  The New Year is quickly approaching (in less than five hours) here in Moshi, Tanzania.  We hope that all of you are well and have plans with your families and/or friends.  Be safe and be well.

Genocide Museum in Rwanda

While in Kigali, the capitol of Rwanda, Jon and I also visited the Kigali Memorial Center.  It is a very modern museum that discussed the history of Rwanda and the events leading up to, during, and after the genocide in 1994.  It was very informative and heartbreaking all at once.  Some of the more interesting things we learned include: the Tutsi who were the target during the genocide had actually been considered the more "elite" group in history.  It wasn't until they began to challenge their colonial leaders that the mentality was intentionally shifted by the French rulers to have the Tutsi seen as inferior.  The genocide lasted only 100 days but is approximated to have killed almost 20% of the Rwandan populations.  The genocide was essentially orchestrated by the Hutu government and military and while it primarily targeted the Tutsi, they also murdered thousands of Hutu if they were suspected of having any compassion towards the Tutsi.  Anyone married to a Tutsi was seen as a "traitor".   Children and women were targeted equally to men and women were systematically raped by HIV positive males in order to subject them to a longer death - the women are still suffering these affects today.  There were photos and video interviews from witnesses that explained the brutality in detail.   There were rooms full of body parts and personal items that were uncovered from mass graves found around the country.  In one room there were thousands of pictures of victims that were displayed in order to put a more personal touch on the experience.  There was also a room dedicated to the other genocides around the world.  Perhaps the most interesting fact there was the the US had still not recognized as a government the Armenian genocide of 1915 that killed between 1 million and 1.5 million people.  Maybe this has changed since the memorial was built, but to be honest I doubt it.  The most upsetting of all the rooms, however, was the room dedicated to the children who were victims.  They had large pictures of  children and then told personal details like favorite food, song, and best friend followed by how they were murdered and at what age.  It was impossible not to get emotional.  The museum was an amazing experience in its own right.  As Jon and I traveled the around Rwanda we saw numerous memorials where mass graves were discovered.  We also saw an amazing recovery in a country with such a bleak past.  The people were very friendly, happy, and the cities clean and organized.  Rwanda is a very interesting place to be and we to have visited!

Rwanda Gorillas

Wow!  Gorillas!  Every amazing thing you've ever heard about seeing the gorillas is absolutely true.  The hardest part by far was doing the legwork to get our permits.  It involved wading through the paperwork in the extremely unorganized Rwanda Development Board.  Once that was accomplished and we made it north from Kigali to Musanze we had to organize transport to the Parc National des Volcans.  It cost $80 a day but would be more if we went to the Susa Group.  That was just the group we wanted to see.  There were a few reasons; it was the largest group at 34 individuals including three silver backs, and it was the hardest group to get to.  We told the rangers on the morning of the 22nd that we wanted to hike to the Susa Group because we wanted a long hike.  They asked if we were sure a couple times and then put us in a group of seven total including an out-of-shape couple with the gentleman wearing a collared shirt and sweater and the woman with her leather purse.  No rain gear or food or water.  The other three were a slightly more prepared family--father and two late-teens/early-twenties children.  Chucks and jeans and no food and not enough water.  Then the fun began.
We took an hour drive up an awful road (I guess that 4X4 was necessary) and then started our hike.  It was steep, but not Glacier-steep and we were held up in the first five minutes as we climbed through community land past small homes, farm plots, cattle, sheep, children.  At the painfully slow pace the group had to keep to stay together it took quite awhile until we reached the stone wall and forest marking the entrance into the park.  Then the real hiking began.  It was a brief section through some thick bamboo, which led to faint trails through the thick brush.  After about two hours of that--which could have been covered much more quickly--we reached the trackers.  There we left our packs and walked the two minutes, if that to where the gorillas were.
The next hour is impossible to explain and actually give you any idea how incredible it was.  There was a mother and baby in a tree.  They came down and walked right toward me.  The guides had to tell us a number of times to move this way or that to avoid getting in the way of the gorillas.  Shortly after the mother and baby passed we settled in a group to watch their group.  A black back, a not fully matured male, walked past where the head silver back was hidden from view.  He must have done something because the silver back charged out from under his cover and my heart dropped to my toes.  I had never seen such a large animal move so quickly, so swiftly, with such absolute power.  He could have ripped the arms off three or four of us before the armed guards could have done anything.  But he just wanted the black back to know his place in the group.  
After this brief interaction the silver back retreated back to his hidden throne and we settled back down and watched the dynamics of the group.  It was incredible to watch the juveniles play with each other, chasing one another around a tree or wrestling in the flattened brush.  It was amazing seeing the mothers care for their little ones, to feed them, to groom them, to let them go on their own.  It was beautiful watching the babies walk on their own, to flip and roll, to walk over to their relatives and wrestle and play.  It was unbelievable when the third silver back of the group came over and laid on his back and all the others around him did the same before he sat ten to 15 feet from where we were watching.
In the end right before our hour was up, the top silver back came out and interacted with the third silver back and they walked right by me as I shot a video.  I even had to move and they disappeared into the brush, followed by at least ten others.  It was so incredible it brought tears to our eyes.

I would love to show the video but it takes too long to upload so here are some photos.  The third silver back, a mother feeding her baby, and Carrie and me enjoying our stay.

Merry Christmas

With Christmas less than a week away and the uncertainty of internet access, we just wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas.  Hopefully you are with family or friends and that you will have a wonderful day.  We miss our families and friends dearly and will be thinking of all of you.  I must say that it hardly feels like Christmas down here just south of the equator.  I still dream of snow and hope you have a white Christmas (if you want). 
We are spending our final day in Uganda today and are about to head down to Rwanda this afternoon.  We're trying to figure out the best way to get in on a gorilla trek and aren't sure if we head directly to the park and try to set up with a tour company or go to the capital of Kigali.  Either way, Rwanda is looking to be expensive and we probably won't be there too long before we head into Tanzania. 
Hope everyone is well.

Merry Christmas,

Jon and Carrie

Queen Elizabeth National Park

We didn't know we were going to spend any time in Queen Elizabeth, but we met a Dutch couple, and they recommended we track chimps there.  We realized that tracking chimps, although touristy and a bit expensive, was an experience we did not want to miss.  Camping was limited in the area as there are mostly expensive tourists lodges.  However, with a little luck on our side we found a spot to camp right outside the park and the view into the park was spectacular.  Within the first few minutes we spotted an elephant grazing in the distance.  The man there, Meddie, helped us set up the tracking as well as the rest of our day touring around the park on a boda-boda (motorcycle) seeing many elephants, buffalo, and hippos.   In the morning we went to the southeast corner of the park where the chimps are primarily in a gorge.  We set out to do our tracking in a group and spotted the chimps after about one hour.  In total we saw about 5 individuals out of the twenty that live in the area.  We were lucky to see them at very close range, the detail of their hands and feet were amazingly similar to our own.  They allowed us only about 25 minutes but it was a spectacular experience.   The second half of our day we explored the northwest part of the park.   Riding around the park, three of us on one boda-boda, with the wind in our hair and breezing past countless elephants, warthogs, buffalo, and more was a great way to explore the other parts of the park.  At one of the lakes there were hundreds of elephants and buffalo.  It was an amazing day!  Here is a shot of B.J. the chimp, who we saw at close range...enjoy!  We tried to get up a video, but it took way too long to upload.  We put in this shot to help protect the chimp's identity.

Blog to follow

Hey everyone.  While we're here in Africa, our good buddy, Ben aka Jammin, is leaving Dec. 6 for Argentina and Beyond.  Please also check out his blog at http://benjaminpolley.blogspot.com.

The last week in Uganda

Wow!  It has sure been an active week in Uganda.  Last Sunday Carrie and I started our trip with the German Red Cross volunteers for four days on Mt. Elgon.  We were successful in our climb of the highest point, 4321 m (14,259 ft.) Wagagai and 4165 m Jackson Summit.  After a safe return, although we were wet and muddy--very muddy--we made our way from Mbale to Jinja.  Instead of actually staying in Jinja we instead opted for the beautiful Bujagali Falls right along the Nile River.  We spent a day in Jinja and went to the source of the Nile, where it empties out of Lake Victoria.  The next day we went rafting along the Nile.  It was called Class 5 and the waves were big.  From what we heard and discovered first-hand, this was unlike other Class 5 rivers in that they seek out the difficult waves and try to flip the boats as it is so deep and relatively safe.  I was nervous after seeing some of the photos of the flips until our first and then I realized how "safe" it actually was.  We flipped a number of times in huge waves and rafted down the river in the rain.  The water was warmer than the air and we swam in the Nile--thankfully no crocodiles!  We purchased a CD of photos, but if you want to see 2-3 photos of our trip now, check out Nalubale Rafting on Facebook.  The third from December 4 is the biggest action shot.  Maybe we can add more later.
Hope all is well back home.  I'm dreaming of snow but loving all that is happening here.  Take care.

Photos

Hello everybody.  We have added a photo or two to a couple of the old posts.  Check them out and we'll add more if and when we can.

Mbita

17/11/11

Yesterday was my 33rd birthday.  It was possibly the first birthday that didn't much feel like one, but I enjoyed the day.  Carrie and I had breakfast at the Elk; mandazi, an egg, and tea (yes, I had tea--not too bad), and then we walked to Rusinga Island, which is connected to Mbita by a causeway.  On the causeway there was a Police check and an officer called us over and welcomed us as we spoke a bit in Kiswahili, which we said we knew very little.
Just after that we met Carolyne, who invited us to the Adams Acadamy where she worked with orphans.  We agreed to meet her this morning to go there with her.  She pointed us down a street, where we found we were in neighborhoods where the children came and yelled, "Mzungu!  How are you?" to us.  I shook their hands but felt a bit shy as we were off who-knows-where with who-knows-whose children.  Eventually we turned back to the main street.  We followed it to the Little Jewels Schoool, where the children ran to the gates and greeted us.  We walked over and were asked inside.  We sang with them and then they sang to us.  We were asked insid eht school where they sang a bit more.  We left for some treats to bring back.
We went to a store and bought some candies, one bag being Obama pops.  He sure is popular here.  We caught a boda-boda (motorbike) back to the school.  They sang for us again and we photographed and videorecorded them and then gave them the treats.  School let out and many of them walked with us, holding our hands, one boy coming as far as our hotel only to turn around when we left.
We had a nice dinner in an interesting hotel and came back for a couple drinks.  We met two fellow North Americans, Kurtis from B.C. and Gabby from Boston, and had a couple beers with them and then went to bed tired.

19/11/11

On the 17th we met Carolyne in the morning and walked with her to the Adams Acadamy.  Once there, the children went crazy and came to greet us.  Even the children taking exams dropped what they were doing to come see us.  We sang "Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes" and other songs with the children and listened to their songs and a couple poems.  Then we distributed the Obama pops, which were huge hits.  They were also whistle pops, which the kids discovered quickly.
Carolyne asked if we would return after lunch as it was lunch time and the children didn't want to leave because they were afraid we wouldn't return.  Our plan had been to go to Mfagano Island after seeing the school but I saw how much fun Carrie was having (I was too) and how excited the children were to have visitors so we said we would return.  We walked back for a small lunch and a coke and some passion juice--which is amazing.  Carrie left to get a couple of books to read in the afternoon.  Just before she returned, Lilian, one of the teachers, came to collect us for the afternoon.
We walked back and when the kids saw we were coming back they ran and ran around the building, laughing and shouting.  We entered, greeted them, and then sat and read the books.  The first book kept their attention, but by the second they were losing focus.  They were much more excited when Carrie would run around with them playing a form of "Simon Says."

After going outside for that we then made a circle and sang songs and played games.  They sang some of their songs, my favorite being, "I have a ball, I put it here, I play better, I play better, I play better," and we taught them the "Hokey Pokey," which they really enjoyed.  We played a game that was very similar to "Duck, Duck, Goose."  After the day we walked back with many of the chilren, Peter (the chairman), Lilian, and Carolyne.  We commited to seeing their farm/garden on Sunday after a couple days on Mfagano.
After getting back, exhausted, we realized w did not have enough money to stay until Sunday.  Lilian had offered to go with us to Mfagano and show us around and in the morning yesterday, the 18th, when she came, with Peter and Carolyne, we told them our situation, apollogizing for comitting to more than we could.  They understood and walked with us to the boat.  Carrie, Lilian, and I boarded and had a tight, uncomfortable ride, smashed onto wooden-plank seats.  It was beautiful, though, and we were happy once we reached Mfagano, after calling in to Takawiri Island first.
Once there, Lilian took us to meet her grandmother, who was upset with Lilian for not informing her there would be guests coming.  She would have prepared us food but instead gave us two Fantas and a Sprite for Lilian.  After leaving Lilian's grandmother, we stopped briefly to tour the power plant, powering Sena and possibly the whole island.  From there we carried on to where Lilian was born and sat briefly on the beach admiring the fishing boats and the lake (and the children, of course--always the children).  Then it was on to see her house where she grew up.  I snapped a photo of her and Carrie on the porch. 
After that we went to Carolyne's husband, Wilson's house.  He stayed there with his mother, whom we also met.  He prepared a lunch for us and then accompanied the three of us to the museum.  Having read nothing more about the museum except that it was there, we were surprised to hear it was Ksh 250 a person and said we couldn't afford it.  The woman offered to show us quickly for free, as we were also rushing to catch the last boat back to Mbita.  It was interesting and had some great historical artefacts.  From there we rushed to the last boat back in Sena and waited as it was late.
We caught the boat back, once it came, but were too late to see the farm.  Instead, Wilson invited us to dinner at his and Carolyne's place.  We came and brought some tea and milk to contribute as they had already given and done so much for us.  Dinner was an appetizer of bananas, pineapple, and oranges and a main course of fish, sukawiki, ugali, and another vegetable similar to the sukawiki.  It was delicious.  We ate our fill and then Syndi and Donna--their children--recited some poems and sang some songs.  As they sang their "Farewell Song," the lightning and wind really picked up and we left to not get rained upon.  Carolyne, Wilson, and Lilian walked us home and there was an incredible electrical storm over Lake Victoria.  We made it home before the rain and went to bed.